Chris' Trans-Continental Motorcycle Adventures

We're Back Up!

2012-01-18T21:10:00.000-08:00

My apologies to readers who attempted to download the e-book and were met with a broken link. I have fixed the problem and now everything works fine (I tested it to be sure.)

Thank you for your support and be sure to write me with your feedback and questions! I am always happy to hear from fellow riders and would love to post your adventure stories on my blog!

Excerpts: Southern China

2010-10-17T16:32:00.000-07:00

Stairway to Heaven. The ride south toward Jinghong proves to be one of unexpected beauty. Like an old winter coat, the terrain sloughs off the rugged mountains for tamer hillsides and jungle patches. Cedars turn to palms and thicket to grass. In the buttery afternoon sun, the road snakes through stair-stepped rice terraces—gold and green broken only by silver streams.

How Does Motorcycling in Southeast Asia Work?

2010-10-14T14:45:00.000-07:00

If you are thinking about motorcycling through this part of the world, you might have some basic questions like: "what do I do if the bike breaks down?" or "will I be able to get spare parts?" or "how do I wash my clothes?" I will try to answer some of those questions here:

Repairs, Maintenance, and Spare Parts

I was worried about this, but it ended up not being a problem. The bike will break down, but the good news is that since most people in this part of the world travel by motorcycle, there are tons of little repair shops everywhere and they are usually pretty good. They can fix tires, replace chains, fix electrical problems etc. They also usually carry a wide assortment of filters, hoses and the like.

Sometimes, you might have a breakdown that requires a spare part that can't be found in the country you are in (Laos, Cambodia...) Usually, if the part isn't inside the engine, the handyman might just make one for you. I had a wreck and destroyed one of the handlebar clamps as well as the plate that holds the wheel lock nut on my rear frame. The guy at the shop just made one out of scrap metal and it worked great.

Costs of Repairs

Very cheap. I got brake pads (parts & labor) for something like $5 USD. Chains might cost you about $20, but you won't go through too many of those (be sure to buy rubber O-ring chains.) I think tires were about $20. Electrical, alignments and those types of services are usually less than $10. In short, it's cheap so carry cash.

Personal Daily Life

Small towns in SE Asia & China have lots of repair shops and restaurants

Usually your day will look something like this: Start riding in the morning, stop along the way for gas and a bite to eat, get into a town and set up 'base.' Find a guesthouse, inn, hostel or cheap hotel and take a shower. Buy a box of laundry detergent, ($1) and wash your cargo pants and rugged shirts in the bathtub. Lay them out to dry in the sun. Hose off your Crocs shoes and leave those out as well. Use your 2nd set of clothes, (I carried about 3 sets) go out into town, chat up the girls, get something to eat and a beer. Wake up the next morning, your clothes are dry. Hit the road again...

Security

Stay connected to your family and friends back home. There is email all throughout China and SE Asia (sometimes in smaller Chinese towns, access is tough though.) Bring a good bike lock from home. The ones you will find in China are cheap and rust VERY quickly and fall apart. ASK your guesthouse if they will let you park it in a gated area - usually they will. Sometimes they even let me park it in the kitchen! Keep it locked: Loop the chain through the back frame, not the tire, and lock it to something iron or concrete. Make sure you bike is too much of a pain in the ass to steal! Keep your goods near you - especially your passport and important papers. That being said, I never once had a problem.

What to Take with You on the Road

2010-10-14T14:24:00.000-07:00

Riders thinking about motorcycling China & SE Asia often ask me what they should bring with them on the road. So, here is a basic list of items to have with you. Keep in mind, you can buy almost all of it when you get there. Don't fly this crap with you on the airplane - they will think you're a terrorist!

(For Southeast Asia)

For You:

Mosquito repellant
Crocs shoes (fake) - they are great for muddy southeast Asia. The holes let them drain water and you can wash them and dry them in the sun. Finally, they protect your feet.
Sunscreen (Bring a good one from home SPF45)
Army-surplus style fatigue pants or really durable cargo pants.
Good army-style socks.

A toolkit for the Bike:

Electrical tape
Multi-purpose tool (all-in-one)
Extra electrical wire
Needle-nose pliers
Zip-ties (might bring from home)
Bunjee net (bring from home) - or at least some bunjee cords (buy in China)

Remember, you can buy almost all of this stuff on the road while you are travelling - that's where all of this crap was made in the first place! I will talk more about repairs in the next post.

Top 5 Favorite Motorcycling Spots in China

2010-10-14T14:11:00.000-07:00

#5 Deqen

The road from Dali to Deqen is long, brutal and requires constant attention. As a rider, this 7-hour slog was one of the toughest of my career. Constant winding roads, hairpin turns, hazards around every bend - oh, and there's the thinning oxygen to contend with. 14,000 ft. altitude, beautiful scenery and the chance to get as close as you can to Tibet (it's only about 40 km from Deqen.)

Located in the northwestern corner of Yunnan, next to the Tibetan border.

#2 Dali

Ancient walled city, tons of flat, open roads to cruise at your leisure, stona pagodas, and a nice mix of Chinese, Tibetan and other minority culture in this hamlet. The city is a nice base to jump off from. If you don't have your own bike, consider renting one in the city. They have a nice selection of 125cc and 150cc bikes as well as scooters and bicycles for the healthy-minded. As an aside, there is a ton of marijuanna, opium and other drugs in this city. Basically, the cops look the other way, but just the same, travel smart.

Be sure to check out all the neat farm towns like this one. In the fall, they make noodles and hang them out in the sun.
Located in Yunnan, in the northern half of the province. Backpackers often like to check out nearby Lijiang.

#3 Shangri-la

Need I say more? Shangri-la! It's a real place and it's worth checking out. Highlights are Somtang Monastery - it's a lot like the Potala in Lhasa, Tibet except much more accessible to you and your bike. You can eat yak meat and drink butter tea in this city. The hilly, mountainous roads around the city are perfect for trailbikes. You can rent motorcycles at the guesthouses in town. I bought the motorcycle I did my ride with in this city for $600.

Be sure to take a jacket - or buy one in town. Tons of little junk and provision shops for cheap wares.

#2 Southern Yunnan

Breath-taking rice patty terraces, sunsets and jungle-atmosphere. The culture in the towns south of Kunming quickly take on a Southeast Asian flavor. The rice terraces are best in the evening. I recommend driving out of Kunming in the morning and then getting a slow lunch on the road while making your way into the rice patty areas in YuanYang.

#1 XishuangBanna

So much to do in this area of southern Yunnan. It borders Laos, Myanmar & Vietnam. Get ready for entering a completely different world. Not only do you have the culture, people and flavors of Southeast Asia, you have the rare "Dai" minority group. Their food is very unique and their culture is fascinating. You will see people from tribes that number only in the 10s of thousands. In downtown JingHong, there is a Dai-style hut you can stay in (guesthouse) with woven bamboo floors and palm frond walls.

From here you can enter Laos. I strongly advise you to avoid travelling out to the Myanmar border. I got into big trouble there!

A Dusty ol' Piece of Writing - Gangjin, Summer of 2008 - Enjoy

2010-07-26T02:38:00.000-07:00

By now it had stopped raining all across Korea except for an area of a sole square meter which happened to be right in front of me.

No matter how fast I drove or which direction I turned, a fountain of filthy road water bloomed before me.

Flashback. One month ago, on my way to work a car pulls out in front of me and I jam the bike’s front end squarely into its passenger door. Removing the cosmetic front fender seemed reasonable to me—and why not? Doing this fits squarely into my personal philosophy of logical minimalism and reductionism. I have no place for excess fiberglass.

Now as I drive through a watery curtain of misery, I realize that this ‘cosmetic’ fender serves a very real function—to prevent water and debris from being picked up by the wheel and then flung up into the air in front of the rider. The more you know.

The misery is as ironic and poetic as it is tangible. I wipe the cold road water from my foggy visor (thank god I sprung for the $3 face guard!) A blurry green metal sign whizzes by in the inky night. Damn, missed it. “WONK!!” a huge tanker truck blasts its horn to warn me that I’m crowding his lane. This is getting ugly and fast. Goddamn this cold and dark. Up ahead, I see another flash of highway green: “Gangjin 14km.” If it’s big enough to warrant a sign, it’s big enough to have a motel.

I pull into the parking lot of the “Garfield (love) Motel” looking like a drowned rat. I cringe at the feeling of sopping shoes and muddy jeans clinging to my feet and ankles. I’m not all motorcycle adventure just yet. Misery.

Gangjin is a pound-sign of a town—just a tic-tac-toe board of sleepy streets with a sprinkling of the usual pubs and shops. The kind of places that are open or closed subject to the owner’s mood for that day. The neon lights of the motels are all that puncture the dark, wet sky.

An old maid appears behind the child-sized check-in window. The lobby is clean and modern. A lot of fake black marble and stainless steel décor. There’s something very well-maintained and new about the place.

“35,000 won please.” She says before inquiring about something else I can’t understand. “Room for two?” she asks from rote.

“No, just one,” I answer.

For a moment, she just looked up into space and pondered the implications of this response. Then she hands over a welcome bag filled containing some condoms, lubes and other sundries along with a key.

If I could only say in Korean “No, no lady, it’s not what you think.” But let’s face it—there’s porn on the TV and I’ve had a long day—so it probably is going to be like that.

I lay out my socks and shoes to dry by the door, but I don’t count on them being dry by morning. I open the window but it’s of little use with 90% humidity and a cold draft.

The room itself proves to be the best I’ve encountered yet. Immaculately clean and decorated like a 1980’s junk bond trader’s Miami sex pad. It’s like they knew I was coming. As if this wasn’t delightful enough, there’s a 40” plasma TV and a computer with internet access. Not bad for 35,000.

After a quick walk to the family mart down the street, I return with all I need to remove the misery of the day’s ride: Pringles, a tall HITE beer, and some Beef Jerky. With the buzz slowly sweeping over me, I gazed out the window to the world outside. A sleepless pink sky laid like a heavy burlap blanket over a chicken-scratch city. City lights like pin-pricks screaming, muffled through the madness. Water-logged, insomniac misery. “Fuck tonight,” I think.

. . . . . .

Sharp white light bounces off every surface in the room. A razor crisp mountain air slices through the room. The comforter over my thighs is warm and glowing white a blinding white. Am I dreaming about a fabric softener commercial? The shoes and pants—they look dry! The air is crystal clear and the room is ablaze with morning sun.

There is a peace, a resolution in the air. What was unfinished last night is now resolved. All is settled, all is right. Outside the open window, two stories down, I hear an old man clapping his hands behind him and chatting with a passing delivery biker. Birds chirp and flutter about. The window with its sighing curtains frames deep sapphire skies and glistening mountains. I can see for miles.

I’m smiling harder than I have in a very long time. I sing an old favorite song in the shower.

If you find yourself caught in love,
say a prayer to the man above..

The cool mountain air dances with the hot mist while I think about the dangers of forgetting times like these. How many times did I nearly give up when the sky was pink and sleepless. There’s a present danger in not waiting until the morning. Enough of that—it’s only 8:30 in the morning and I can see that today is a day made for riding. Time to saddle up!

Gangjin is already alive and going when I hit the narrow streets outside the motel. On this corner two old men’s gold teeth flash while they shoot the breeze in front of a truck, pregnant with sun-rimmed melons. 5,000 Won each. Two red delivery bikes buzz past me and amble through the market like scared fawns. Everywhere, there is an expectation in the air—a message written between the atoms: Today is the day!

The ride out of the hamlet was like a summer morning’s breakfast where all is outlined with white. Like so many paintings I tried to paint back in school, only to find that titanium oxide white just can’t do what the sun can. How can you paint air that feels like sweet butter? Or mountains that look like cantaloupe tastes? With my never ceasing mind, I muse about art as recreation. We must do it—yet we are doomed to fail at it. There are no words, or brushes—no musical instrument that can love and burn you the way the sun can, or chill and thrill you the way the wind can. But we have to try.

I passed the edge of town and rolled like a dime on its edge through the glittering fields and craggy mountains that held Gangjin in the palms.

Reminiscing: Motorcycling Around in South Korea

2010-04-06T03:07:00.000-07:00

South Korea will always have a special place in my heart. I have nothing but good things to say about the little Daelim 125 that I had when I lived there. Here are some cool vids from YouTube of other Daelim enthusiasts out there.

"The Return: Riding Western China" by Crazy Parker

2010-01-08T00:50:00.000-08:00

If you haven't already, you will want to check out "The Return: Riding Western China" by Carl Parker (a.k.a. CrazyCarl of MyChinaMoto.com) Just take one look at the rack on this bike and you can see Carl is h.a.r.d.c.o.r.e.

Carl's DVD is an in-depth journey through Western China - covering a lot of the turf I did in the first part of my ride. He films himself, through the highs and lows of the harsh and rugged (yet beautiful) terrain of Yunnan and Western China. A must have!

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A Motorcycle License: Is it Necessary?

2009-12-29T19:25:00.000-08:00

This is a question I get sometimes from other riders. My simple answer is: "Sort of." Unlike the U.S., U.K. and other highly developed nations, Laos & Cambodia operate with looser rules. Basically, I recommend having SOMETHING to show the authorities if you get stopped. You can get an international license like this one online for really cheap. I like this particular one because it has a hologram on it and is printed on a really 'official-looking' card. In the paper booklet that comes with the international license, you can just mark the motorcycle permit area yourself. Done.

Now about China. In theory, an international license is invalid in China and you need an official Chinese license to get around. Unfortunately, this is off-limits to the visiting foreign tourist. What are you to do? I got stopped several times, and I showed the international license. The cop would call headquarters and talk to someone for a while then let me go. The key to getting out of this: use a lot of English, and speak quickly. If you aren't making trouble, chances are the cops will just let you go to get rid of the hassle. Stay out of big city centers!

Thailand, I got stopped by a cop and he took my license and went back to his car. I ran away. Probably not the smartest thing I've done.

The Best Do-It-Yourself Motorcycle Helmet Cam

2009-12-28T00:50:00.000-08:00

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Dobro Došli "WildManGulice" Members! We Love Serbia!

While riding through Asia, I built my own "helmet cam" mount for under $10 using some simple things you can find in any hardware store and PC shop. This helmet cam takes about 15 min. to make and works great. Here is a video I made using this mount:

What you need:

A cheap, $5 webcam tripod mount like this one. Make sure it is made from plastic and has a metal standard screw mount for digital/film cameras.
2-Part epoxy glue. Get it at any hardware shop. Should be rated to bond plastics.
Some coarse-grit sandpaper or a grinder.
A plastic motorcycle helmet that you don't mind permanently altering. (no leather helmets.)
A soft rubber washer (optional)

How to build it:

Snap the plastic legs off the tripod. Grind down the bottom until it is flat and smooth.
Use a piece of string to find the center of your helmet - this should be directly over the crown of your head.
IMPORTANT: Once you've found the center, mark a space that is about 5-10 degrees back from the center point. When you ride, you will keep your face down. If you mount the camera to the center point, then your camera will always be looking down too. Moving the mounting spot back a few degrees will give you much better videos.
Sand down the area on the helmet you want to mount the camera to. It should be at least as big as the base of the webcam mount.
Use the two-part epoxy mix to attach the camera mount to the sanded spot on the helmet. TIP: If the webcam mount has an adjustment for angle, you may want to epoxy this as well so it doesn't come loose while you are riding.
Let the mount cure overnight. The next day, twist your camera onto the screw mount sticking up out of the helmet. You will need to do this several times to find the perfect spot to 'start' twisting the camera. Once you find the best spot, mark it with a marker so you can find it easy the next time. TIP: Adding a soft rubber washer to the mount can make this easier- it will give you some room to 'nudge' the camera into place to get the perfect angle.
IMPORTANT: Always loop the camera's neck strap through the helmet's chin-strap when riding. If the mount breaks off while riding, your camera will be caught by your chin strap and won't fall onto the road.
Set your camera to "Video" and you are ready to go!

Some memories from the road.

2009-12-24T17:27:00.000-08:00

Below are just a handful of photos from my ride through Asia. Hope you enjoy them. There are plenty more posts, maps, illustrations and more throughout this blog, so help yourself fellow riders!

The harsh and rugged mountain passes that lead to Deqen, in Northern Yunnan Province, China.
(Nearing the Tibetan Border)

My bike, parked on a roadside at 14,000Ft (4,200M)
Northern Yunnan

Life on China's "national roads" is much harsher than the new, clean and motorcycle-banned super highways. A local commutes to his job at one of several nearby factories. In the distance is one of the usual heavy-duty trucks that makes life on these roads dangerous and miserable.
(Eastern China, Wuxi)

The nitty-gritty life of southern Laos. This town borders Thailand, separated by a narrow river at the back of the plaza. A perfect resting place for a weary rider!

Fellow Riders Snatch up Copies of "S.E. Asia on 2 Wheels!"

2009-06-13T05:36:00.001-07:00

"Southeast Asia on 2 Wheels" (e-Book) version is selling well in its first few months online. Reactions seem positive so far!

Already I've had several riders contact me with comments like these:

"...After I read through your book I felt like I could do this too. You make it much less scary than I had imagined it being. Thanks for all the great info and photos!..."

Sam R.
Delaware, US

"My wife and I have been dreaming of a motorcycle ride through Laos for years. ... We've just loved looking through your book and getting ideas of all the great places we can see this fall."

George and Barbara L.
California, US

"Brilliant book! ... Me and my flatmates want to make a ride through China early next spring and ... we've been looking through your book and getting excited about next year! The drawings are fantastic man. Thanks for your emails and tips mate. We'll let you know how the ride goes."

Will and "the Gang"
Essex County, Britain

"... Every time I look at those pics from Yunnan, I get so pumped about taking a ride like this for myself. Your book [gives] me a lot of confidence in setting up this journey. Love the illustrations too!"

Ivan
Brisbane, Australia

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Exiting China by Motorcycle - Details

2009-04-02T18:50:00.001-07:00

It seems that how to exit China by motorcycle is a popular subject among adventure riders in forums. Recently, I've been asked about the details, so I thought it would be good to include these aerial photographs to help make things clearer. The following explains how to enter Laos from China.

1. Arrive in Mohan, Xishuangbanna region of Yunnan China. The town is something like a midwestern American 'strip mall.' Find a good place to sleep- there are a few inns or guesthouses to pick from. You will want to start fresh the next day.

2. Go to the passport processing station (exit/entry station) park outside on the curb and then fill out the standard paperwork and departure card for leaving China as a tourist. Then, mention the bike. (now they are trapped and have to help you get the bike out.) They may tell you to go to Customs. You don't have to go, but humor them anyway - it's just down the street.

3. Back at passport control, haggle with them until they agree to let you take the bike out. You may need to pay a $1 toll. (7 RMB) I showed them the following paperwork: bike ownership papers (fake), registration booklet (small blue booklet), international license. This seemed to be enough for them.

4. Show your passport with the exit stamp to the guard in the kiosk in the middle of the road. You will have to 'walk' the bike until you are out of his sight.

LAOS SIDE.

5. Ride the 3 km through 'no mans' land until you reach the other side. The immigration station looks like a wooden house on the righthand side of the road.

6. Park your bike on the curb to the left of the station - on the road. Follow the regular procedures for a tourist entering Laos. Don't mention the bike to them. Change your money at the immigration station - they have good rates. You will need to get a 'police' stamp while at the immigration house. Show the stamp to the cops in the wooden kiosk next to the immigration station. Then ride on in!

7. Most likely they will not say anything about the bike. I had no customs docs or paperwork for the bike in Laos, and never once was it a problem - either while riding or exiting into Cambodia.

The Wait is OVER! The Book is here!

2009-03-30T02:18:00.000-07:00

After working on it for over two months, I finally finished my book: Southeast Asia on 2 Wheels. 135 full-color pages of photos, stories, anecdotes, illustrations, journal pages maps and more!

In addition to the four major sections on Yunnan, Laos, Cambodia and Thailand I have included some back story on both my first (and unsuccessful) attempt to motorcycle through China as well as how the planning for the trip came together.

I have chosen the very best of the more than 4,000 photos from the trip as well as the most humorous, moving and fascinating of the several hundred anecdotes for Southeast Asia on 2 Wheels. I know when you see the final product, you will think it was worth the hundreds of hours of crafting, writing, reviewing and editing.

Whether you are a fellow adventure motorcyclist looking for inspiring stories and tips for the road, or you are simply content to 'ride' from the safety of your living room chair, you will find a great journey in my new book, Southeast Asia on 2 Wheels.

Get it here

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2009-03-16T02:54:00.001-07:00

THANKS READERS!

According to Alexa, Chrison2wheels.com has improved it's popularity from 18,300,000 to 4,692,617. That is a large increase in viewership and I have you to thank! Your support means the world to me.

It's coming... The book!

2009-03-05T19:34:00.001-08:00

Over 110 pages of full-color, southeast asia motorcycle journey action! Photos, stories, diagrams, maps, journal pages and so much more! Coming this spring!

I will try to post more bits of the book as they come along. I expect that it should be finished by May or so. In the meantime, here are a few teaser pages of what to expect. Hope they pique your interest.

(see later posts)

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Info for Riders

2009-01-25T21:03:00.000-08:00

Whether you want to buy a motorcycle in China and ride through Laos, Cambodia and Thailand like I did, or you are just curious how these things work you should be able to find some answers below.

Here are some "How-To" articles for fellow riders who want to ride through SE asia. I hope they are of use to the reader. If you have any questions, post them as a comment on this article and I will try to address them in my next post.

How to Enter Laos / Exit China by Motorcycle
How to Enter Cambodia / Exit Laos by Motorcycle
How to Buy a Motorcycle as a Tourist in China
How to Buy and Register a Bike in South Korea
How to Prepare for a Motorcycle Adventure
How to Make a Motorcycle Helmet Camera
How to Travel Super Cheap by Staying in People's Homes for Free

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The End of the Road.

2008-12-17T04:07:00.000-08:00

On my bike in downtown Thailand

Bangkok, Thailand

Friends, family and supporters, today marked the official end of the "Iron Horse Journey" which began nearly 2 years ago on a sunny table at the Borders Books Cafe in the watertower district of Chicago. At roughly 5:00 PM Thai time, I sold my trusty horse, Rocinante to a tuk-tuk driver for a mere $150 USD. Battered, beaten and irreparably Chinese, the bike carried me faithfully to the very end, even with a dead battery. Washed up, he still had the proud, shiny look of a store bike, but I knew he had been bleeding oil from his engine case secretly in the night, when he thought I couldn't hear him. Brave, noble Rocinante - farewell old friend!

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18,013.9 was the final KM count on the odometer when I parted with the bike on the touristy "Khao San Road." I bought the bike with 6,800 KM on the odometer, meaning that I drove 11,213.9 KM, or 6,968 US Miles total on the drive. I have driven 2.5 the width of the USA, and although I am very tired, it feels great!

Broke down by numbers:

Batteries: ............................................ 2
Tires: ....................................................1, 1 innertube
Oil Changes:........................................ 6-7
Chains:................................................. 1
Miles per day:..................................... 77.5 (approx)
Accidents:.............................................1 (Cambodia. Scars are cool.)
Countries..............................................4
No. of times dogs peed on bike:.........Unknown
Beer consumed by volume.................36 Gal.
Gas Consumed (estimated)................166 Gal. / 630 Lt. (14 Lt tank with range of 250 KM)
Chickens dodged...................................1,435
Cows dodged.........................................547
Bugs eaten.............................................92
Bee stings..............................................1

Now, I can officially put the doubts of fellow bikers to rest:
A Chinese, 150cc Dirt Bike WAS good enough for the job. Case Closed.

No regrets! Time of my life! Hard, difficult, beautiful, mind-blowing, unforgettable experience. Highly recommend you get started on your trans-world motorcycle ride.

As for me, I will be going to Japan to get a J.O.B. and to pursue some more freightening adventures like: learning to cook and practicing Thai Massage - with my new license that I got in Bangkok. I will also be working on a photo-book of the ride with pages from my journal, my writings, pictures, drawings etc that cover the other 99% of the trip I couldn't fit into this blog. I will make limited prints for family and friends who are interested. I have 5 DVDs full of photos and video to go through first. And before that I need to buy a sweater because it is winter in Japan.

I plan to post more photos etc. from the ride that I didn't get around to posting earlier when I get settled.

Thank you friends and family for your awesome emails, phone calls and support.

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Chrison2wheels.com Shatters Web Traffic Record

2008-12-17T04:02:00.000-08:00

(BANGKOK)

At roughly 7:00PM on Wednesday December 17, "chrison2wheels.com" became the 18,357,398th most viewed website on the internet, placing it in the "Top 19,000,000 Websites on the Internet."

"I attribute this high ranking to our policy of sporadically posting new content, then not updating for weeks at a time" site founder, Chris Maupin said.

You can check your blog or favorite website's ranking at alexa.

Man - Long Time, No Blog!

2008-12-02T21:53:00.000-08:00

Chumphon, Thailand

As you may have seen, Thailand is a bit of a mess lately with the whole 'overthrowing the government' business going on. I will try to paraphrase what happened and then start blogging again from this moment forward.

After Bangkok, I made my way south to several great cities - Petchaburi with its wonderful mountaintop stupas and charming river festival, then Prachaub Khiri Khan which had wonderful seaside appeal, and finally to Chumphon where I fell in love with the nearby town of Sawi (where I wish to buy a home someday - to get away to). Then I crossed by ferry to the Island of Koh Samui where I met up with Hiromi. That's when the fun (and the trouble) really began!

At Koh Samui we:
* Rode elephants and saw coconut retrieving monkeys.
* Stayed in a 5-star resort
* Saw a thai boxing match - including two viscious 11 year olds!
* Got tons of Thai massages
* Learned how to cook Thai food

We also:
* Got rained on constantly
* Got stranded because of a government overthrow
* Got ripped off sometimes.

I will spare all the details, but let me just say it has taken tons of phone calls, emails and sweat and toil to finally get Hiromi on a flight OUT of Thailand! So..

Now I will briefly visit the Myanmar border to renew my visa (but I will not enter into Myanmar!). Then, I'll go north toward Bangkok to take a massage education course and get a license! Why not - it's only 5 days and I can make money later with it. We'll see where it goes. Then it's on to Laos to sell the bike, and probably bring the journey to a close.

I will post more pics soon!

Good-Bye City- For Now.

2008-11-10T07:06:00.000-08:00

I have accomplished precious little in this mammoth metropolis. I have only stopped through for a couple days in Bangkok. I will move south tomorrow snaking my way down to Koh Samui for a rendezvous with my sweetheart. Then, after she returns to Japan, I will move back north en route to cross back into Laos to sell the bike. I will visit Bangkok right and proper on the way - and have one last hoorah in Thailand.

The electric starter isn't working on the bike as of yesterday. Other electricals work fine (horn, headlight, etc.) Any ideas? Kick start still works - but man, that looks lame.

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Thailand!

2008-11-08T04:19:00.000-08:00

After a road from hell and beaurocratic nightmare at the border, Rocinante and I are now safely on the Thai side. They drive on the left here... oh boy.

.

Another MILEstone

2008-11-07T04:44:00.000-08:00

Odometer passed 13,800 today meaning that I have traveled some 7,000 kilometers or 4,350 miles on this trip. The bike, although less pretty, is strong as ever.

Tuol Sleng (S-21) Prison and the Khmer Rouge

2008-11-05T19:38:00.000-08:00

Phnom Penh, Cambodia - Tuol Sleng Prison

UPDATE: March, 30, 2009. Former operator of Tuol Sleng Prison, "Comrade Duch" goes on trial for war crimes in Phnom Penh.

I took a visit to the infamous Tuol Sleng prison in Phnom Penh. Originally a high school, the Khmer Rouge (under the leadership of the despot Salath Sar, AKA Pol Pot) converted it into a one of the worst torture centers of modern times. Between 1975 and 1979, thousands of men, women and even children were rounded up and brought to Tuol Sleng prison where they underwent cruelty beyond description.

Dictator Pol Pot (Salath Sar)

Crimes warranting a visit to Tuol Sleng ranged from political dissidence against the KR to simply 'being educated' or 'literate.' Pol Pot envisioned a Cambodia of the "Year Zero" in which all modern knowledge, all education, all technological advancement was erased, and the people would all be starting from "zero." Friends and neighbors turned on each other and a dark paranoia settled over the country. As the years passed, Pol Pot became more and more suspicious of his populace and the torture at Tuol Sleng reached a fevered pitch. It is estimated that over 17,000 persons (including 9 westerners) were imprisoned, tortured and then later dragged to the "killing fields" south of town where they were executed. Mass graves are still being uncovered around the country.

Victims of S-21 Prison

History repeats itself.

Although Tuol Sleng appears much cruder than our 21st century Guantanamo Bay (Gitmo) Delta Camp prison, there are ghastly comparisons to be drawn between the Khmer Rouge's actions and our own. Water-boarding was a favorite torture technique of the KR. And like the U.S. the KR harvested little useful information from their torture (or should I say "Enhanced Interrogation Techniques.")

A Cambodian Artist's depiction on water-boarding used by the KR

The Last Straw.

Pol Pot and the KR, possibly over-estimating their power and abilities, began to antagonize their neighboring Vietnam (who had recently rid itself of US military forces and enjoyed support from the USSR). Regular border incursions and attacks on nearby Vietnamese villages as well as the tales of the horrors taking place in Cambodia finally awakened the ire of the Vietnamese leadership. It was communist Vietnam that finally put an end to Pol Pot's reign and genocide in the year 1979.

Phnom Penh

2008-11-01T01:22:00.000-07:00

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

After a whopping 350 km one day and another 130 km today, I have finally made it down to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. It is a busy, bustling city with head-spinning traffic and polished storefronts. While the city has plenty in the way of creature comforts and cosmopolitan appeal, its tourist offerings are of the more ghastly sort. Tomorrow I will visit the infamous "S21" prison which was the scene of unimaginable torture and cruelty during the reign of the "Khmer Rouge" in the 1960s and '70s. Then, I will take in the "Killing Fields" - the mass grave where some 17,000 Cambodians (and 9 westerners) were brutally executed by Pol Pot's regime. Then, I think I will have to watch a disney movie or something else to lighten my mood. I'm deeply interested in seeing these things, yet I am sure it will be overwhelming.

Today, I will keep it light and easy. A cold beer and a view of the Mekong River should make for a good start. Photos to come soon.

Cambodia

2008-10-27T20:11:00.000-07:00

Stung Treng, Cambodia.

I crossed from Laos to Cambodia yesterday evening. I've seen parking lots with tighter security than that 'border crossing.' I knew when I saw one border guard sleeping shirtless in a hammock and another dozing off in a folding chair that this was going to be easy.

Here's a funny fact - the border people will ONLY take US dollars for visas - they won't even take their own currency. The ATMs all dispense US cash too.

Laos, Miles Covered.

2008-10-26T02:22:00.000-07:00

Pakse, Lao P.D.R.

Here is an overview of my ride through Laos so far.

1. Boten. Crossed the border, entering Laos.
2. Nam Tha. Taught a free English class and got invited to a village party.
3. Oudomxai. Met the BMW motorcycling couple from the UK.
4. Muang Kuah. Chartered a riverboat to carry self and bike (and 7 others) to Luang Prabang. A dazzling eight-hour float down the ancient Nam Ou river.
5. Luang Prabang. Beautiful, breath-taking historical city and UNESCO world-heritage site.
6. Phonsavahn. Learned about America's Vietnam War legacy and witnessed the ancient 'Plain of Jars.'
7. Vang Vieng. Innertubed down the 'party town's' river. The ride in - one of the best.
8. Vientiane. Dusty, dirty, lonely capital of Laos. Rather not go back.
9. Pak Ngeum. Drank in the kindness and hospitality of a local Lao family - sharing in their daily life.
10. Tha Khaek. A lovely little spot on the Mekong River - enjoyed the local street food and
views of Thailand across the stream.
11. Savannakhet. A brutal ride in oppressive heat and sun. A mirror of Tha Khaek - a jewel
on the Mekong. Invited to a Lao barbecue where I learned to play Lao games.
12. Pakse. Where I write this post. Larger than Savannakhet and full of great temples and river views.
13. Cambodia. Ready to tackle the border again!

Rules of the Road

2008-10-25T04:39:00.000-07:00

Pakse, Lao P.D.R.

Whenever I tell someone that I am traveling by motorcycle, they invariably reply with "isn't that dangerous?" or "aren't you scared?" Most people believe that motorcycling is inherently risky or dangerous. The truth is, it doesn't have to be.

Here is my personal set of "Road Rules" for motorcycling.

1. Ride in the Daytime. I don't ride at night unless it is absolutely necessary.

2. No Rain, No Ice, No Bad Weather. If it rains, I find an overhang and pull over. Always.

3. Helmet. Always. There is never a good reason to ride without one. Ever.

4. Be Visible. Use headlights at dusk - even if you can still see. Wear bright colors, make sure all running lights are working.

5. Don't Prove a Point. If someone is driving faster than you, let them pass. Don't try to prove you are right by cutting people off. I'd rather be shamed and alive than proud and dead.

6. Don't be in a Hurry to Die. Hot-rodding, wheelies, reckless passing, and other cavalier driving stunts are for movie stars. You already look cool enough with a motorcycle - no need to show off.

7. One Beer is Too Many. If you plan on drinking, then walk there - take a cab etc. If you drive there and then drink, lock up the bike and get it tomorrow or walk it home. There's too much to risk.

8. When in Rome. It doesn't matter how people drive back home, it matters how they drive where you are! In Asia, bigger vehicles always have the right of way. It doesn't matter who got to the light first. Watch others and what they do and copy them. Again, doesn't matter if you are right when you are dead.

9. What's the Rush? If you drive 65 miles an hour instead of 60, you will might get there about 6 minutes faster. Is getting somewhere a couple of minutes earlier really worth the risk? Obey speed limits and don't overheat your engine. When in the city, play it cool and relax - there is plenty of time to get wherever you are going.

10. Happy Vehicle = Happy Ride. Safe tires, good chain, working lights. Fix it before you get on the road.

11. Whatever It Is, Stop to Do It. iPods, cell phones, water bottles, chin straps. Whatever it is that needs adjusting, pull over and stop to fix it. You can never afford to only have one hand on the rack.

In the end, I stick with the mantra "life is already dangerous enough, why make it more so!?" With a little common sense, there is no reason why motorcycling has to be categorically dangerous.

Easy Riding!

2008-10-22T01:44:00.000-07:00

Tha Khaek, Laos PDR

With great enthusiasm and motivation I left lonely Vientiane yesterday, fully intent on getting a good 250 km under my belt for the day. No further than 17 km later, Rocinante (the bike) began to choke and sputter. Bad fuel filter. I stopped in a small rural town to mend it, and get some water at a local convenience store. One thing led to another and soon I found that I was spending the entire day with a really wonderful Lao family. We played with their kids, did some chores, and even cooked a great dinner together. I especially enjoyed just sitting around and watching the grass grow while drinking the milk out of a fresh coconut (which I helped pull off the tree.) I stayed the night in their home / store and woke up refreshed this morning.

Setting off in the early sun, I noticed something very odd about the road I was traveling. I checked the compass which confirmed my suspicions- this road was straight! Hell's bells! I hadn't seen a straight road since I left the US. Hour after hour, mile after mile, the road shot straight out east, flat as the floor across a sun-baked savannah. I passed some 250km and would have done more if an aching sunburn hadn't reminded me to stop. So, stop I did, in the small city of Tha Khaek, just 100 km from Savannakhet which will mark my last leg of Laos before Cambodia. Best part of all - it's only 3:00pm! Looks like another lazy afternoon of watching the dust blow with the locals.

Bike nerd stuff: valve tapping noise may be the result of poor-grade gasoline. In China, various types of gas are available at every station (#0, #90, #93 octanes etc.) In Laos however, if gas is available at all, it is simply "unleaded" which I suspect is a low octane, low grade gas. In cars, low octane fuels can result in tapping or 'pinging' so I imagine the same must be true of bikes. Fuel filter replacement stopped the power loss and cutting-in-and-out that was happening yesterday. Air filter might need to be replaced as well... come to think of it, after all the dust and diesel I've choked on, my air filter might need replacing!

Time to Move On...

2008-10-18T19:58:00.000-07:00

Vientiane, Laos PDR

I have spent a few days now in Vientiane. It is a rather nice city - still retaining some of its French colonial charms. However, there is something rather empty about it as well. It really is 'just a city.' When compared to Nam Tha, Luang Prabang (any comparison to Luang Prabang is probably unfair), Phonsavahn or Vang Vieng, the capital seems to come up short.

So be it! I guess that just means its time to saddle up and move on.

Odometer: 10,000 Km.

2008-10-16T19:59:00.000-07:00

Vang Vienne, Laos PDR

I bought the bike at 6,800 km, and now it reads over 10,847. Therefore, I have traveled some 4,047 km or 2,514 miles so far! How is that possible in such a small space between China and Laos? It's because there isn't a single straight road in Asia. Mountains, mountains and more mountains.

Ride to Vang Vienne was spectacular. Here is a tease.

Moving on to the capital now.

Luang Prabang By Boat.

2008-10-09T08:07:00.000-07:00

Luang Prabang, Luang Prabang Province, Laos

boats like these provide transport up and down the Nam Ou river

Traveled from Oudomxai to the river port town of Muang Khou by motorcycle. Roads were good 75% of the way, with patches of flood devastation and occasional landslide damage. From Muang Khou we (Andrew, the cyclist from New Zealand and 5 other travelers and myself) chartered a boat to take us to Luang Prabang.

top: the scenic Nam Ou river, bottom: Easy boys! That's my lady you have in your hands!

Getting the motorcycle on the boat was...something else. So far, Luang Prabang is amazing!

the sun sets on the river near Luang Prabang

Motorcycle seems to have developed a 'valve chatter' problem and is going to need some attention while I am in town.

School's In!

2008-10-06T04:47:00.000-07:00

(Luang) Nam Tha, Northern Laos

a student looks into a classroom at the village school

I made my way to the south end of town today where I found the local "village secondary school." I wanted to volunteer to teach English and this seemed like the right place to try it. I was only on campus for about 10 minutes before I got what I was looking for!

students welcome their teacher as he enters the room

The school was a combination of simple concrete buildings with open windows and wooden 'crate' buildings - homemade affairs with untreated wood plank making up the floors, walls and everything else. The school was obviously poverty stricken - however this did not seem to affect the students' morale. Every student dressed in white shirts with black slacks for boys or black skirts for the girls. They all stood and saluted the teacher when he entered or left the room and they listened carefully and wrote lots of notes.

I met a Math and English teacher named "Ben" (he has a rather long Laoatian name.) He invited me to be a guest teacher for his class. I had lots of fun making them repeat things and role-play in front of their peers. They may be from a totally different culture, but being an embarassed and self-conscious teenager seems to be universal. Before long, students from nearby classrooms were lining up at the windows to watch.

Ben stands just outside a local village

After class, Ben took me to a string of villages in the area. When I say village, I mean village! Thatch-roof buildings, no electricity, no running water. Chickens and hogs ran about. Children played completely naked in the roads. To get there, the bike and I had to cross an Indiana Jones-style rope bridge! We entered the house of some Kmong (spelling?) people.

Ben saved the best for last. After waiting out a brief rain, he took me to a farther village where the staff of the school were having a party to celebrate "October 7th" - which evidently is a holiday for Laos. Every adult in the room insisted on shaking my hand and pouring a shot of "Lao-Lao" (local whiskey) for me. Then I was made to dance with the locals - which was a lot of fun. Finally I was sat in front of the village chief! (Yeah, I didn't know there really were such people either.) He seemed pleased that a foreigner had joined the party. The high school students, who were also attending, were a blend of curious and mortified by my presence. ha!

village chief (center) enjoys the party

In all of this, I couldn't help but be deeply impressed by the Laos people. Few people have suffered as much at the hands of America as Laos - yet never have I received such a heartfelt welcome.

Success! Crossing the Laos Border by Motorcycle.

2008-10-05T03:18:00.000-07:00

Nam Tha, Northern Laos.

Depsite the protests and whining of the Chinese border guards, I was able to bring the motorcycle out of China and into Laos without a problem. On the Laos side, they didn't seem to care about the motorcycle and didn't feel the need to fill out any kind of paperwork. On the China side, they only charged me about USD $1.

So far, Laos is a laid-back, and very beautiful place. I plan to write more and put up photos - but in the meantime, check out my HELMET CAM video. I made my own helmet camera mount - seems to be working well so far. I plan on staying in this town for a couple of days and seeing the country side before heading south to Luang Phrabang.

Arrived: Mengla - Approaching Laos Border.

2008-10-03T00:35:00.000-07:00

Mengla, Xishuangbanna County, Yunnan Province, China

Arrived in the city of Mengla which Lonely Planet describes as '...a dire little town...' - seems ok to me. Quiet, palm trees everywhere. Easy-going locals - what is so dire? I will try to get my things ready and acquire any gear I need here before approaching the Laos border either tomorrow or the day after. Last night's stay in a traditional 'Dai' ethnic hut was really rather nice. A table of Chinese persuaded me to drink 3 beers with them - they were a loud and raucous bunch.

The ride to Mengla was rather nice - the landscape looks more and more 'Mekong river delta' with every passing mile. Rice fields, thatch houses and bullet-shaped mountains towering about.

Above is a map of what I have covered so far, by bike and otherwise - as well as my future route.

Fellow Riders: Steer Clear of Myanmar Border.

2008-09-30T23:38:00.001-07:00

JingHong City, Xishuanbanna Region, Yunna China.

Worst roads yet - Menghai to DaLuo. Mud traps everywhere and ruts up to a meter in depth. Advice: stay out of "DaLuo." It took me 2 hours of police interrogation to get out of there!

Good news:

* Police were exceedingly kind and treated me very well.
* They realized I didn't have a license or proper ownership, and they didn't care.
* They offered to let me stay in the town because it was getting dark (but I got the hell out of there.)
* They returned bike keys to me and wished me luck

The silver lining here is that it was the 'worst case scenario' or riding in China - the police knowing you don't have a license - and despite that they let me go. They seemed satisfied with the IDL. They were much more concerned with what I had 'seen' and what I had taken pictures of. Also, they were worried I had entered illegally from Myanmar. Yeah right, like I'd even be able to get into Myanmar!

I'll write more on the story later because it's rather funny now. The ride home in the dark wasn't as funny...

Jinghong - Stranger in a Strange land.

2008-09-26T07:10:00.000-07:00

Arrived, through a downpour and mudslide battered roads, at the Mekohng river crossing - the city of Jinghong. Beautiful palm-lined streets, Thai architecture and balmy, tropical weather. Bike and rider were covered in mud and soaked.

I will write more later - suffice it to say now that I am at the southernmost province in Yunan. Only miles from the border of Laos, Vietnam and Myanmar. All signs are bilingual here - with Myanmar writing!

Chris

Making Progress Toward the South

2008-09-25T02:44:00.000-07:00

Woke up and made some solid miles south toward JingHong. I have stopped in the town of... actually I don't know the name. A very nice hotel room is about $10 USD here. As I make my way south, the land and people seem to become more and more reminiscent of Vietnam or SE Asia.

FOR BIKE NERDS:

The Zhongshen 150 has drum breaks front and back (yeah, I know..). Continuous downhill driving and constant tight turns had taken their toll on some already worn breaks. I took the bike to a local bike shop here and had the boys do their magic. In less than 30 minutes they:

1. pulled both front and back wheels
2. removed gunk from front break line
3. removed shoes from rear drum
4. replaced with NEW break shoes
5. reassembled front and rear drums
6. reinstalled front and rear wheels
7. adusted all cables etc.

Total cost to me: about $4 USD. Wow.

"Ecape from Kunming" and "Into the Jungle."

2008-09-24T00:36:00.000-07:00

Near YuanJiang, Yunnan Province, China

I woke up early yesterday morning, hoping to avoid the police. Then, not 5 blocks from the hostel, a street cop flagged me down. "Damn.. game over.." I thought to myself. I tried my usual hit-them-with-fast-English-to-scare-them routine, but he spoke a little English. Here was the conversation.

OFFICER: "Your is registration bike."
ME: Damn. He's good..
"Here you go officer."
OFFICER: "This is expire. You will get a new one."
ME: "Ok."
OFFICER: "Have a nice day."

And that was it. The dreaded run-in with the law was over in about 30 seconds and I was back on my way. Phew.

On the way out I was caught in the middle of a caravan of PLA soldiers in big green military trucks. They got such a laugh out of seeing me riding between them.

The road was in good condition most of the way - sealed asphalt with a smooth surface. However, the route consists of a hairpin turn about every 100 feet and thusly can only be traveled at about 20 miles and hour. The going is slow. I pushed it too far again last night and was on the road past sundown. The going got really slow then.

I saw more stars than I have ever seen in my life. 1000s.

Finally, a group of "police" manning a post by the side of the road (more like four 20-somethings in T-shirts and shorts smoking and playing cards) asked me to sit with them and smoke a cigarette. They directed me to a 'hotel' just 5 km down the road. I found said hotel to be more like a 'garage' for humans. Concrete, filthy - like a state-park cabin. Never been so glad to have a bed.

Only made it about 50km today to the town of __Jiang. I found a nice hotel here, and decided it was time to take a half-day and clean up. Tomorrow I will press on for the Xishuanbanna region.

Already the terrain is transformed - more SE asia than China - palms, exotic peoples, sod houses. So much diversity in one province.

Dali to Kunming - The Long and Winding Road..

2008-09-21T19:13:00.000-07:00

450+ KM. 11 Hours. Too long.

Got out of Dali old town yesterday morning around 10:00AM. This leg was particularly long because of a lack of accomodation between the two points. (many hotels are not allowed to house foreigners) Roads were easy breezy about 80% of the way. Wide, paved, asphalt - smooth with not a lot of hairpin turns. Dropped some altitude and breathing was easier.

Road turned to hell about 60 km outside of Kunming. Patches of dirt and rock with enormous ruts (up to 18" in some places!), mud, lumbering dump trucks panting out their black plumes of soot. Then, I lost the race against the sun and it was 'night driving.' Night driving is one of my "don'ts" in motorcycling. I would describe the night traffic in Kunming as a 'free-for-all' or 'road circus.' Finally I got to my favorite hostel, the hump. Treated myself to a huge single room, with a bathroom etc - $20 USD. Big spender.

No more long rides like that. Next is either elephant reserve or Yuanyang rice terraces.

Rocinante (my bike) handled the worst like it was nothing.

Shangrila, Deqing and Tibetan Villages

2008-09-18T22:54:00.001-07:00

Shangrila, Yunan Province, China

Despite only being about 200 miles apart, it takes a good seven hours to reach the city of Shangrila from Dali. Harrowing hairpin turns around blind mountain corners and a steady climb from 6,500 to 9,800 feet make the journey rough going. Once I arrived here I quickly set about renting a motorcycle - a street-legal "dirt bike" and shot out west. A cluster of ethnic Tibetan villages fills a grassland plane between the mountains. In the summer and fall a shallow lake appears.

Yaks, pigs, horses, cows, donkeys and sheep constantly wander across the roads. The Tibetan farmers build large wooden racks to dry their harvested rice crops on. The racks fill the flood plane like organic solar panels. As I coursed through rough, muddy and sometimes non-existant gravel paths I was met with smiling farmers and snickering women. A small child called out to me "hello?"

The next day, I rented the bike for three days and headed north toward Deqin, the last developed town before the Tibetan border. Along the way I met, by total coincidence, a motorcycling friend from the internet: Loh, Kaiwen (Singapore). We happily shared the road together and took on the endless mountain passes. Two-thirds the way there (70 miles out), the road seemed to disappear just over a smooth hump. We stopped the bikes at the top to take in the awe-inspiring scene: A sloping grassy plain that dropped off into a deep gorge surrounding an enormous, glacier capped alp. So beautiful it was nearly frightening.

Just outside of Deqin a sign read ELEVATION: 4,290 Meters (14,070 Feet). We could feel it - every breath was a struggle and the bikes also seemed tired. Loh and I discussed the various perils we had encountered riding in China on the rooftop of our hostel. Tibetan trumpets called out eerie low hums and high-pitched wails through the chilly full-moon night.

Loh continued his ride north alone and I set off to hike the nearby glacier. I thought I should see one while they still exist. After arriving at the park, I parked the rental bike and began the 2-hour hike up the mountain to the glacier's foot. I considered turning back no less than 1,000 times. Short of breath, exhausted, every step seemed impossible - just not enough oxygen. But I pressed on and somehow made it to the glacier. A hot day suddenly turned chilly in the presence of all that ice. Hard, cold, brutal, jagged ice. Stunning.

I returned to Shangrila to sort out the motorcycle question. I decided not to buy the rental bike. It was in short, a piece of junk. I fruitlessly searched high and low for a similar dirt bike but to no avail. No sooner had I left the bus station to buy a ticket for Kunming when I saw it. Perfect condition, low miles, proper license plates. I approached the owner and made an offer. A few phone calls later and I have about 10 Tibetan friends and a motorcycle. I have christened this one "Rocinante" - the name of Don Quixote's horse. Thanks Brian for the idea!

Enjoy the photos. Next it's Dali, then Kunming then the drive south toward Laos.

Oh, while driving back to Shangrila, a bull tried to ram me. Did he think I was going to steal his harem?

Back in the Saddle

2008-09-18T22:54:00.000-07:00

Shangrila, Yunan Province, China

He's Baaaack. This time I mean business!

I purchased a trail bike today - in superior condition for a very low price. This is the right machine for the job. High suspension, big wheels, knobby tires - finally a machine that can handle the worst of China's roads.

I completed a 400+ km roundtrip ride from Shangrila (which I am using as a base) and Deqin, which is the last town of any size before the Tibetan border. The bike handled the hairpin mountain curves and cobble-stoned, heavily rutted paths with ease. Now, I'm ready to do this right.

Venturing on to Dali and "Shangri-La."

2008-09-10T03:10:00.000-07:00

Yes, it is THE Shangri-la. From what everyone says it lives up to the legends. It is in the northernmost corner of Yunan and borders Tibet. Shangri-la is said to be the most Tibetan place outside of Tibet. To travel to Lhasa however would be another 600+ miles and far from my route. I will spend some days up north and look forward to renting a motorcycle there.

Toying with the idea of buying another bike on my return to Kunming and making the drive to Laos. The coming trip north should offer the most stunning photos yet.

Enjoyed smoking the local tobacco today. Angelhair thin strands - tastes awful.

Oh, and I cut off all of my hair today. My head looks like sand-paper. Also, they shaved off my beard. I will try not to cry.

Kunming, Yunan.

2008-09-07T20:58:00.000-07:00

Arrived by "Hard Sleeper" train (11 hours) in Kunming, the provincial capital of Yunan. Just got here so not much to write about yet. Looking to meet up with a fellow motorcycler I met through "Couchsurfing.com." He may have some interesting information. We'll see. I like this city already - something different about it.

Chris

The Joys of Outdoor Tattooing and Dental Surgery

2008-09-02T23:07:00.000-07:00

GUIYANG CITY, GUIZHOU PROVINCE

Feeling rested after my 11-hour bus ride from Changsha the night before, I set off to see what Guiyang has to offer. My couchsurfing.com host, Melissa, and I soon stumble onto a grizzly avenue hosting some of true free-market capitalism's more macabre offerings.

Exiting the busy clothes and shopping market we find ourselves on a quiet canal-side street. A row of greasy and blackened stalls pigeon-holed into the wall opposite the canal are filled with used tools, vices, cables and the like. The shop tenders themselves are easily lost amongst the stacks of dusty and worn equipment. A woman cooks some Chinese fare on an open fire. Two chickens walk about untethered. Then, across the street, against the canal railing, two men are sitting on small folding chairs under a parasol. Melissa and I hear a constant hum - high pitched like an electric razor. From a motorcycle battery on the ground, two wires lead up to a naked dirty and naked hand holding the buzzing tattoo gun. The patient looks off into the distance as the gun hammers the ink into his flesh. Along the canal we can count at least 10 of these 'street parlors.'

As I watch the artist dip the same needle into different colors of ink from a filthy tray on the street I can't help but wonder if either of them know the risks. In a small case next to the chairs are some different bottles of ink and some graphite stenciling paper. No sign of other needles, gauze, iodine or anything else representing safe practice. We watch with a sense of horror and intrigue. I was more shocked by the fact that none of this seemed even slightly dangerous to anyone but us. The most expensive tattoo available cost $10 USD.

Passing several of these HIV sharing parties, I find l'Creme du Squalor! In a scene from a health department horror flick, we meet our first 'street dentist.' No medical equipment, no gloves - just a man, a small wooden case and some crude metal instruments which would seem more at home in the tool shops across the street than in a dental hygenist's hands.

Holding a man in a headlock, the 'doctor' dipped his tools into some small unmarked viles in his case. He smiled sadistically at us as his 'patient' spat out a noxious compound that smelled vaguely like amonia. In his case: a preserved human mandible, a small box of human teeth, several glass viles of different powders and clear fluids and metal cookie tin. The back-alley doc slowly opened the tin to reveal to us what might be the most terrifying thing I've ever seen: a dark, rusty, 4" section of a common hacksaw blade. I still don't know what use a dentist would have for this implement.

The good doctor turns to me with an expression that seems to invite me for a 'tooth cleaning.' Thanks but no thanks.

Being a Poseur at Hunan International Economic University

2008-08-28T19:46:00.000-07:00

Changsha City, Hunan Province.

Staying with couchsurfing.com contact, Tony. From the minute I arrived at Changsha train station, Tony and his friends have been excellent hosts.

Whether I intended to or not, I have become a de facto albeit temporary student of the university here. I've sat in on three classes so far - a Korean class and two English classes. The teachers seem happy to have a foreigner in their class and there has been a lot of support from both staff and students. I will continue with my usual philosophy of "do it until you get caught."

I think I will stay here a few more days - if not just to revel in college life. Being here promotes an urge to seek a master's degree... but in what?! Something to think about.

Communist Art. Big. Boxy. Concrete.

2008-08-27T03:46:00.001-07:00

This post is dedicated to a good family friend, Jan - the sister of my step father. Thanks for your support Jan!

Sylvia Kratzer, the German teacher at Nanchang Univ. took me to the "Bayi Square." Bayi, which appears as the Chinese Characters: "/\ -" means "8.1" or "August 1st" which is signifacant to Modern Chinese History and the Communist Party of China. It was on 8.1.1927 that the "Nanchang Uprising" sealed the defeat of the Kuomintang (nationalists) by the communists. The "People's Liberation Army" was said to be founded on this day. You can see the characters in gold on the flag monument at Bayi square.

The square itself is quite large, with a large concrete and stone obelisk-like monument at the far end. The momument is a classic piece of drab, blocky, communist art. A fitting memento to the birthing of a blocky, drab and cumbersome political movement. Across the street stands a massive former communist building, replete with red star and god trim. The building is now ironically used an electronics market.

The irony of the scene is not lost on me. Here, on this square, one sees the dead, lifeless tombstones of a dated ideology surrounded by those living icons of a different ideology: a KFC, a Wal-Mart Supercenter and the Electronics Market. In this light, I muse over a new interpretation of the soldiers' pained expressions carved in the flag monument's sides: the CCP's new struggle to hold their position in a changing economic and political landscape.

Huangshan Pics

2008-08-25T00:09:00.001-07:00

Misty, foggy, and finally rainy - the photos of Huangshan were a bit lackluster, even if the moutains themselves were not. Incredible granite peaks of various forms and a heart-stopping vista of the valleys and lands far below.

It began to rain very heavily and suddenly as I approached the summit. Scary! I had to hide in a small cave in the rocks like a drowned rat. Although funny now, at the time I was scared shitless- being way up high and watching sheets of water flood the paths and routes back to the bottom.

I walked several kilometers down the mountain to the main gate at the bottom - still feeling the aches and pains of that long march. Have to get into better shape!

Slow Life in Nanchang

2008-08-24T23:50:00.000-07:00

I am wrapping up my last full day living on the campus of "Nanchang University." I've been staying here free and in great comfort and company courtesy of local couchsurfing member Sylvia Kratzer--the local German instructor here at the college. She set me up with an empty apartment all to myself as some of the other teachers are still away on vacation. Highlights so far have included drinking beers on the roof of a 21-floor highrise in the middle of the night (what a view!), a trip to the German import store "Metro" (Think something like "Das Wal-Marten) and some easy and comfortable days spent chilling with expats from Germany, the US and Barundi!

Tomorrow I will continue my push west to the city of Changsha where I will meet with Couchsurfing member "Liqing Tang." He seems like a lot of fun from his emails. It will be interesting to see the birthplace and stomping grounds of the late Chairman Mao ZeDong.

Personal Thoughts as of Late: The China we hear about in western media and the real China that people live and work in are very different. We've been too simple and too lazy in our (mis)understanding of them. Hardly what I'd call an "Oppressive Authoritarian Regime" - I think our views of them haven't evolved enough since the era of the USSR. As for their transgressions - they are grim, yet so were ours (US) when we were growing.

Will write more!

Over as soon as it began..

2008-08-21T16:58:00.000-07:00

Believe it or not - I have some shocking news. I have decided to delete the "motorcycle" from this "motorcycle adventure." That's right, I am getting rid of the bike today (if I can.)

I took this ride because I wanted a freeing and liberating experience. In China, it is neither free nor liberating to do this. Here are the reasons why I have made this decision:

1. It is illegal. I am not a Chinese resident.
2. It is a constant stress worrying about running into cops - cops are everywhere.
3. 400 miles in, it is clear to me that the roads I have to use-national roads- are so poor, so dangerous that it just isn't worth it.
4. It took 7 hours to go about 200 miles. My visa will expire before I can reach Yunan.
5. This bike just isn't sturdy enough for this kind of punishment. 2 days ago, there was a road that was just golf-ball sized loose rocks. This bike - cute as it is - was never meant for that kind of abuse.
6. It is all exhaustion and no fun. This isn't like riding in Korea or the US.

Anyway, I will continue my travels - I will just do it with buses and trains like a normal human. In Laos, Cambodia etc., I will rent a motorcycle to take fun rides, because tourists can do that. They have shoppes for this purpose.

I realize this news may be kind of shocking, but yesterday I thought long and hard about it. I wanted adventure, not misery. I think I'd rather just enjoy traveling the world, and not worrying about it. Hope you understand.

I will continue to use this as my travel blog. Then, when I rent bikes in SE Asia, I will post pics of riding there. In the future I will continue to use this blog for my motorcycle trips.

Huangshan

2008-08-21T16:57:00.000-07:00

Made it to Huangshan. 400 miles in.

Roads were even worse than previous day. Just terrible.

Objective 2 Accomplished!

2008-08-16T16:28:00.000-07:00

It was almost too easy.

First we looked at the 'motorcycle market' that I discovered through the internet. It looks like whatever party was going on there is pretty much over. A few nice Qingqi and Jianshe new bikes for about Y7,000 (USD $1,000.) Not bad, but no plates and no registration. That would take a week and create new hassles costs and problems.

Turns out the guy I am staying with had a friend with a pretty new bike he wanted to sell. We set up a meeting. An impromptu market place formed as not one but 4 guys came with their bikes to sell! I tested each. The Chinese bikes handled badly, including the nearly new one. Less than impressed. Then, one guy had a Chinese body with a Suzuki engine in it - handled perfectly. He didn't want to sell it, but after some convincing and arm-twisting I got it from him for a pricey Y6,500 (USD $900.) I don't mind paying it as it's already registered and has a dependable Japanese engine in it. Also had tons of locks and an alarm to boot!

Last night, to thank them, I took Mac and his wife and their Chinese friend "James" out for a great dinner at a restaurant they loved. This very large, reservation-only dinner for 4 cost me a grand total of about... $22 USD. We talked about all sorts of things and I found my Chinese hosts to not only be very aware of world events but quite opinionated. I learned so much just listening to them go on and on about their lives and the world they live in. I'm beginning to think our interpretation of them in western media is a bit askew.

Well, if the weather permits, I may try to hit my first destination tomorrow!

Signing off. Chris

Inside!

2008-08-15T18:29:00.001-07:00

(scene from lake Taihu near the place I am staying.)

I am writing this from inside China - Wuxi city. Objective 1 accomplished. Today, the couple I am staying with will take me to 2 motorcycle markets. Also, he has a friend with a newer bike and all paperwork - I may buy this from him. Will write again when Objective 2 is accomplished - procuring a bike.

Up, Up and... DELAY!

2008-08-12T20:56:00.000-07:00

Well Crap. I missed my flight out of Chicago today - so I have to wait until tomorrow morning (8/14). What a crock. So, now I have to kill 20 hours in Shiller Park, IL until my flight leaves tomorrow morning at 8:30AM. This is an odious beginning to a grand (mis)adventure.

Chris

Trip Prep Underway

2008-07-15T02:35:00.000-07:00

The Journey Begins on August 12th, 2008!

Some Things that need to be done before lift-off:

Secure a Chinese Visa. Praying that I can get a 60 day visa not a 30.
Shots for Hepatitis A & B. Don't' want to spend my trip in a toilet.
Working out a network of people to stay with. Couchsurfing.com!

Some Major Things Already Taken Care of:

Airfare to Shanghai
International License (No Good in China, but better than nothing)
Tons of Money
Border research and due diligence
Up-to-Date Passport
Personal Documentation

Old Bike Sold. Preparing for Big Ride!

2008-07-15T01:37:00.000-07:00

My time here in Korea is coming to a close. I will return to the U.S. briefly to see a good friend get married (and you thought I was adventurous,) see the family etc. Then, On August 12th, I will fly to Shanghai to begin my ride across asia!

Bike Sold
Sold Vagabond II, my Korean Daelim Daystar 125cc to a U.S.A.F. soldier for $700. Not too bad when you consider I bought it for $800. Being on foot sucks, though!

Article to Be Published
A travel article I wrote about my ride across Korea on Bike will be published in the August edition of the expat magazine Eloquence here in Korea. I will have a 2-page spread featuring my 825 word article and photos from the trip. This is my first published and paid for article!

Featured in Column in Korea Herald
My political writings were featured in the popular column Kaleidescope in the daily national newspaper, the Korea Herald last week. Thank you Kim Seong-Kon!

Preparing for Ride
The Big Ride is coming - August 12th. I will start near Shanghai, China where I will buy a local motorcycle and ride it west into Yunnan Province. Then, I will take it through Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Indonesia and hopefully Australia. Now I am busy preparing - have to get some vaccinations, get some visas and work out some details here and there. Can't wait!

Weekend in Kanghwa

2008-06-22T00:05:00.000-07:00

6.6.2008

Approx 300 km Total.

Click here for Photos!

To celebrate my love's arrival in Korea, we took a two-day sojourn to Kanghwa-do. Kanghwa-do is about 30 miles out, and its the north-westernmost part of South Korea. It is separated from North Korea by a small channel.

The weather was nothing short of miserable the first day. We stayed in and waited it out. Saturday however, turned out to be an excellent day for riding. Although still cloudy the sun had cleared most of the fog and left us with the best of both worlds: cool and enjoyable with good visibility.

On saturday, we made a full circle of the island. The highlights were the rice paddies in the northern half. As the sun came out they began to steam. Quite beautiful and awe-inspiring. Check out the slide show!

Soon I will need to sell the Daelim to prepare for my big ride across asia. More on that later.

Chris

Korea Cross Country

2008-05-07T09:07:00.000-07:00

See Photos from the Ride!

At 9:00 AM on May 3rd, 2008, I began what would be the greatest ride of my life (so far.) I traveled down the Korean peninsula from my home in Ansan (30 miles from N Korean border) to Jindo, the southernmost landlocked tip of South Korea. Here is the trip and its highlights divided by days:

5.3.2008 Saturday

See Photos from the Ride!

Traveled south and encountered crystal clear mountain resevoirs and gorgeous plains. Met a Canadian biker named Greg and his Honda 750 in Chungcheon-Buk-Do. We toured a temple set back in the western mountains before parting ways. I traveled on toward Hampyeon but ended up having to press on to "Muan City" in the dead of night. Azure skies, warm and no wind.

5.4.2008 Sunday

See Photos from the Ride!

Ventured on in early morning to the charming city of Mokpo. Crowded streets and precariously stacked houses sprawl across low mountains and hills in this port city. Saw a great statue of I-Sun-Shin, the great Korean Naval warrior of the 15th century atop Mt. Yudal. Went on to Jindo and took in killer vistas and anamatronic dinosaurs. Weather turned to absolute shit and I had to make a run for Haenam where I was taken in by a sweet little family. We passed the time until a break in the rain. I made it to Gangjin before weather forced me to stay the night.

5.5.2008 Monday

See Photos from the Ride!

Crisp, clear morning. No clouds. Left Gangjin and met a group of crotch rocket jocks before leaving town. Excellent scenery as I made my way to the Haenam-Gun peninsula. Wind picked up as I reached the southern coast. Rocky crags and smashing waves. The wind at sea level was almost unbarable. Excellent mountains and rolling hills gave splendid views of far expanding plains below. Mom and pop restaurant in farmers town told me to not pass up 'Boseong' and its tea terraces before heading home. I obliged. Boseong proved to be the highlight of the entire trip. enormous mountains, hairpin turns and spaghetti roads offered picturesque views of endless terraced tea fields. I bought some premium green tea at a local shop and began a race against daylight along route 1. Route 1 offered the best mountian passes of all! Darkness won out and I had to stay in Nonsan.

5.6.2008 Tuesday

See Photos from the Ride!

Started early at 8AM and began a sprint back to Ansan. I had to start work at 2PM! I made it back by noon, took a shower and then showed off my new sunburns to the crew at school.

Miles traveled: 780
Pictures taken: 400
Beers drunk: 4
Heart-stopping views: Countless

See Photos from the Ride!

Kanghwa

2008-04-13T09:50:00.001-07:00

I had been itching to get close to the DMZ and a nice break in the weather made Saturday April 12th seem like the perfect day.

The dull plains and reclaimed marshes of Ansan / Gyunggido gave way to large rolling mountains and hills. Pronounced hills jutted up suddenly out of the rice fields like marooned and landlocked islands. The green mountainsides and winding roads only got better as I reached the river-like swath of ocean that cut across the island. I was so close!

The DMZ was a heartbreakingly close 5 miles away, but I knew that I was running out of time. I had to be back in Ansan by 6:00 to keep a promise. I settled for roaming around the area just across the 'river.' I found mountains cleaved by road, and miles of fortified fence. Guardposts and checkpoints were everywhere. Foolishly I had left my license, passport and other documents at home. I had to avoid the cops and MPs - I'd really have been screwed if I were caught.

The highlights were an ancient rampart which afforded stunning views of the sea and surrounding mountains, and cruising the beautiful roads tucked behind the mountains on the other side of the highway.

The ride back saw miles and miles of traffic at a standstill. I was able to cut through it all on the shoulder. The bike however, needs some work before our next ride. I'll be spending my time remounting the rear sprocket, backing out the axel and maybe replacing that damn clutch.

See pics of the ride here.

Drive South to Pyeong-Taek, Asan and Dangjin

2008-04-07T10:42:00.000-07:00

Here are some photos from my drive south on Sunday to Pyeong-Taek, Asan and Dangjin.

click to see.

A Ride into Korea's Interior Reveals Simpler Life

2008-03-23T03:03:00.000-07:00

I had been wanting to travel to the lake Northwest of Wonju city for some time. I chose a route through Suwon City Eastbound for the Yeoju area hoping I could scope out the lake and river area as well as make some observations about speed, comfort and mileage for my future journey across Asia. Due to a linguistic failure on my part, I missed the lake by about 20 miles and instead found a river swell area to the South.

The route took me through Suwon City which turned out to be a heavily congested knot of highways and expressways. It was slow going to just get through the city. I did however snap some video of HwaSeong Fortress and that was worth it. Once out of Suwon I traveled through Yongin and Ichon en route to the river near Yeoju. Along the way, somewhere outside of Yongin, I stumbled across a farming village. Despite some modern cars and farming equip, this low-walled village was an erie picture of an Aggrarian Korea of yester-century. The highlight was a seemingly untouched farmhouse replete with sod walls and timber roof in traditional Korean style. I got out of there quickly as the locals seemed to be suspicious of me.

The river itself was nice and an easy ride up local highway 333 provided some lovely views of the distant mountains. But strangest find on this day-journey was waiting for me in a somewhat more modern farming community just off of 333. It was here that I stumbled across six concrete military machine gun posts. They appeared rather recent - certainly not of Korean war days. But oddly, they were facing the South as far as I could tell. Of course I had to enter them and look inside! Check out the photos below. Note the re-bar machine gun mounts and sandbag fortifications around the bunkers.

The ride home turned ugly in Suwon as the temperature dropped and it began to rain.

Miles traveled: 85

The Journey Begins

2008-03-02T01:08:00.000-08:00

The planning stages of my trans-continental ride are underway. Come back soon for more!